Fort William: A First Timer's View
They flock to this highland venue in their thousands and this passing weekend will live long in the memory of each and every fan that visited Fort William. As this unique World Cup celebrated its 10th Anniversary in its usual blockbuster style, for this spectator, visiting the event for the first time, it was an experience to savour.
I arrived late on Friday evening and the first thing that struck me was how quiet and tranquil the place was, especially for a Friday night!. Situated in picturesque surroundings on the west side of the Scottish Highlands, Fort William lies alongside the beautiful Loch Linnhe.
For visitors from England, you approach the town along a seemingly endless series of twisting and rolling roads, surrounded by views that make the hairs on the back of your neck stand up in awe. Situated in the middle of this magnificent landscape is the small town of Glencoe, 16 miles south of Fort William. It's a place you just have to stop to take it all in: mountains and wild scenery circling the horizon. And, of course, the dark history of the place adds its own flavour to the experience.
Before checking in to my accommodation on Friday night, I was greeted by some of the local people – unfortunately they were clad in blue and white uniforms that said ‘Police’ on them. Little did I realise that I was turning right where I shouldn't be! for a moment, I thought I might be in for a reprimand from these representatives of the local constabulary, but thanks perhaps to the general feeling of welcome which pervades the town (or perhaps they just recognised the trusty British Cycling van and realised I was a bewildered 'foreigner') I got away Scot free, so to speak!
Arriving on the event venue the following day, it didn’t take long to realise that it has a special place in the hearts and minds of the fans who ascend (or probably descend) the awesome slopes of Aonach Moor to watch the sport's ‘superheroes’ in action.
The first racing of the weekend saw some truely some spectacular 4X action on the Saturday evening. It provided almost everything: in a series of eliminator match ups there were crashes, outrageous overtaking and performances of sheer brute speed and strength. Add to that the noise of whistles, horns, vuvuzelas and thousands of screaming fans – and you were left in no doubt, the World Cup had kicked off!
Back to Fort William and after spending the first night in a hotel that was straight out of the classic sitcom Fawlty Towers (and that’s doing Basil and co an injustice) I managed to find a different hotel room that overlooked Loch Lienne. The search for a good meal was a more satisfying experience, and I was soon dining in the Crannog Restaurant, situated in the port of Fort William – where it’s safe to say, I’d never tasted fresh fish like it.
Sunday is all about Downhill racing in Fort William. This is the main event! The course is 2.5km from start to finish, but walking down in the muddy bogs and peat of the moor (as I did twice) it feels like 25km! You can of course take the Gondola from the top or the bottom of the course – a popular option with the vast majority of spectators.
Steve Peat, Gee Atherton, Tracy Moseley and the rest of the World’s best, fly down the track in no more than five and a half minutes and get cheered on by the roaring crowds (the word 'tribes' kept coming to mind as I scanned the tightly packed groups of devoted, almost demonic supporters). They converge at the six or seven most technical sections of the course, combining to form the vast audience that watches Downhill Mountain Biking at Fort William.
There are families with young children, couples walking their dogs and groups of friends just out for a good time. All of human life seems to have gathered on the muddy, peaty slopes: I saw one guy with his posterior on show, another smoking what was obviously not strictly a cigarette, whilst others were gathered round a camp fire, eating beans and pot-noodles. If you're used to the formal environment of the velodrome or the spartan experience of watching road racing out on the open road, it’s a cycling event like you've never imagined. But if my experience is anything to go by, Fort William is an event with something for everyone.
Nevis Range, the Ski Resort venue for the event is open to the public all year round to come and ride their bikes, and has various trails that you can try out if you’re brave enough. I think I’ll stick to watching and next year's event is already in my diary!
